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With the mini heat wave this weekend, will be doing the bearing R&R!!

New Alloy USA bearing kits enroute...

Been working on a custom width Ford 9”. The base was a Full-width 9” from my 78 F150, it had axle bearing seat damage from being ran dry, warped the housing end... cut down to CJ wide-track width...

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Jon, i'll keep that in mind, but to use the 4.0 head i would need to seal off every other water port & i don't trust JB weld as a longterm solution... Clearwater Cylinder Head in Fl cast welds the holes... I may see what Terry Walters would charge for that also...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well I was going to swap the good head off the '79 Motor I have onto the 84... Ran into a laundry list of issues. The 79 uses 1/2" head bolts, which isn't a major issue. I purchased a set of Trick Flow head bolt "bushings" that adapt the 1/2" hole for a 7/16" hole. Commonly sold for putting Ford 351W heads onto a 302. Also required when doing a 4.0 Head Conversion. The real killer of the swap was the fact the 1979 Head's bolt-bosses are raised up higher on the passenger side than the 1984, requiring the same 4.5" long head bolts as the driver's side. This normally wouldn't be an issue, however every reputable dealer has a back-order of the ARP Head Bolts needed... I'm not waiting until June to finish the repair, so I sent the head with bent valves off to Terry Walter's Precision Engines! He's done work for me in the past, and is really the last quality machine shop with good history left in Roanoke. I will post more details when I get it back.

 

Side Note: Terry is also pricing doing the machine work on a 4.0L Head for me to do the swap onto a 4.2L... Clearwater Cylinder Head's $500+ is a bit steep!

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Thanks man, got it about 95% back together as of 45mins ago... Would've been finished this afternoon but had family duties!

 

Head with all new valves, valve job, resurfaced .009, & pressure checked ran me $382.28. Terry was kind enough to let me come this morning to get it eventhough the shop is closed on the weekend! Great service & extremely knowledgable!

 

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Got plugs in & exhaust bolted up... May hsve to pull intake back off to get the EGR Tube back on... Wish i knew thread sizes b/c i'd remove it & plug the holes! I did a Nutter Bypass when i got it due to running the weber carb. Will finish up tomorrow afterwork, change oil & fix the EGR Tube... Fire it up & re-check timing, idle, etc...

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  • 2 months later...

Been awhile since I've updated... Since I finished the head overhaul the Jeep had pretty much been parked, minus the trip to the Douthat Show & to the Benefit for Baby Stone... It was smoking bad from the exhaust, running extremely rich & getting beyond lousy fuel mileage (9mpg highway, 6.8mpg town)... I kept quite frustrated with it, after going through 4 sets of plugs trying to diagnose the issue. I adjusted the carb countless times, the symptoms led me to believe the float was knocked out of spec during one of the aweful backfires when it skipped timing...

 

Fast forward to last week after 2mo of sitting I finally got around to ordering carb kit, tore down the new weber, found the float was about 6mm out of spec, reset it & reinstalled.

 

Jeep ran a lithle better, but still smoked like a deisel on higher RPM & randomly backfired... I installed a reman distributor & set to spec at 8*, ran better but still some mild smoking & hesitation... After about 30mi of test running & adjustments i decide to go off spec & go with what i know best... Tuning by ear... I bumped timing up to 10* and set idle at 675, adjusted the idle fuel mixture, this really woke the Jeep up, no more smoking, or backfiring, grear throttle response... After 70miles i refilled to tune of 10.4mpg, since apprx half of that was during poor tuning conditions & i ran it hard during the full 7mi, i'm estimating in town to around 16mpg... We'll see after next fill-up!!

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  • 5 months later...
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So I've been thinkinh of how pointless it is for me to own the Jeep if I can't enjoy it... So i've been debating re-lifting it. The 3" kit on it is horribly rigid, and I cant take it out to potts or the likes. I already have plans to regear it, so here are my ideas...

 

- SOA lift using stock YJ springs that have been rearched (or new replacements)

- 4.10 gears

- Lunch Box lockers

- 35x12.50s

- Extended bumpstops

- 1" Bodylift (this is a BIG maybe)

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Starting to price all the parts needed... Will be using Rubicon Express front shackles for the 2"CJ to 2.5" YJ conversion... Will likely have spring perches made, and get my own rear shackles made...

 

Need to check out how my current shocks are configured to see if i need new ones...

 

Will have local conpany Cardinal Rubber make my brake hoses from stainless steel braided line

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I was checking out your thread after I wrote you the PM just now. I've rebuilt several MC2100's with great success and I'm borderline dumb as a rock. I've wheeled pretty moderately (blues and occasional low black) and it held up well. Mine seems to have been weeping from a hairline crack on the CJ.

 

I decided to buy one from the dude on Ebay. It's $280 (non-smog), and he'll tune it (mostly) to where you live.

 

Night and day. I thought I had a handle on setting them up. His is out of the box 100% better than anything I've ever done. I run a HEI-TFI hybrid setup on both our 7 & 8.

 

Very pleased and his adaptor is much better than the Mr. Gasket ones I've used in the past.

 

If you have the coin I'd just pull the trigger on it. Well worth it.

 

Anyway nice rig you have there.

 

Edit: The only thing I didn't like about my SOA was my COG was high. Or it felt very high I should say. Ran RE 1" springs...? Can't remember. I feel more glued to the ground with a SUA. Tire clearance is a bitch though as I don't want to tear up my 7. Been there done that trying to keep a decent rig wheelable is a challenge.

Edited by blthomas
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I've rebuilt and been working with carbed vehicles since I was about 15. I'm just waiting to pick one up that'll fit... Or maybe going TBI, not certain. depends on how some deals pan out.

 

As for the SOA, I built my original Jeep (search Project Punisher) using used Springs, on Full-widths and 38s, and it rode nice, and wheeled great. I wouldn't use 1" lift springs unless I was going full width to help offset the height to width of the rig. I'll be using some old YJ Springs, and have them rearched back to spec. They'll still be soft, and my COG shouldn't be aweful.

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